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general trip reports

lima, peru

After all of the encouraging words we’d read about Lima, we weren’t particularly looking forward to spending any time there. A guidebook I’d read before leaving basically suggested: “If you spend only a couple of days there, and see the main sites, you might not hate it.”

 

Armoured vehicles with sub machine guns by Plaza de Armas, the main square in downtown Lima
 

And maybe there’s not much there to see if you’re keen on going to museums and art galleries and general tourist attractions. But it’s not that bad. The main thing that tipped it into favour for me was the food – we ate so much fantastic cheap food there.

But also the Museum of the Inquisition.

 

Museo de la Inquisicion (Museum of the Inquisition)
 

It had excellent mannequins on display. I’m sure it was probably educational too, but with all the plaques in Spanish, and us too impatient to wait for an English tour, we just wandered round on our own at managed to get a rough idea what the plaques were talking about with our rudimentary Spanish skills. And admired the mannequins.

 

Museo de la Inquisicion (Museum of the Inquisition)
 

The San Francison Church and Monastery is also worth visiting, mainly for the Catacombs beneath. According to the Internets: “Originally constructed in 1546, it is one of the oldest churches in South America. It also served as the first official Catholic cemetery in Lima, at a time when the dead were laid to rest in catacombs beneath the church, itself an echo of an old Roman custom… Bodies were brought here, covered in quicklime, and soon reduced to skeletons. It was a quick and sanitary way to dispose of the bodies. Over 25,000 people were buried in this tomb.”

As such there were huge piles of bones artistically arranged in the Catacombs – mainly thigh bones and skulls, as they last longest.

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general trip reports

inka trail to machu picchu

 

And the clouds cleared, and as they descended from Inti Punku there was light! And sun!
 

To beat the crowds to the gate we were up at 4am and queueing to get stamped onwards. Light was already appearing in the sky as we walked towards Inti Punku, and soon headlamps were discarded as I managed to find a quiet section of trail with noone infront of behind, and could pretend I was meandering along on my own. From Inti Punku we caught our first glimpse of Machu Picchu as the sun rose. Well, that was the idea. The sunrise was a bit unspectacular with all the clouds around, but at least we could see Machu Picchu.

 

Structures built around the natural rock – a common theme in Incan building
 

As more and more people started arriving at Inti Punku from both directions, we started our descent down to Machu Picchu. We pass people who had caught the train and bus to Machu Picchu, and were wandering up to see the view – including one teenage girl who is complaining vehemently about the fact she doesn’t want to hike up “another thousand feet”.

 

Lurking llamas
 

Arriving at Machu Picchu is a bit surreal, it’s an image that I’ve seen so many times before, it really does feel like wandering around in a postcard. After dropping off our packs we get a tour around, and then spend a few hours wandering round on our own as the day gets warmer and sunnier. I can smell the soap on the people who came here from Cusco that morning. And there really are llamas wandering round acting as lawn mowers.

 

Views of Machu Picchu and the neighbouring mountains
 

Finally all the people get too much for us, and we escape down to Aguas Calientes, and spend an afternoon in this tourist village that hugs the train tracks, lamenting the loss of our cook. The journey back to Cusco that night is all a haze, as the train and then coach rock us back and forth in our sleepiness, before spitting us out in Plaza de Armas to catch a taxi to our hostel.

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climbing general trip reports

the heartbreak of a moose-less canada trip

My trip to Canada was notable for its complete lack of mooses. I thought British Columbia would be a hotbed of roadside and campsite moose activity, but it wasn’t to be. I feel cheated. There were quite a few chipmunks however. (The more interaction I have with chipmunks, the more I’m convinced that they’re vaguely evil. They have a tendency to try and stalk you, which is more unnerving than it should be.)

On arriving in Vancouver, we received a rather alarming grilling from the immigration official – it went on from the fairly reasonable ‘So how do you know each other?’ (we met in the training camp) and ‘What are you planning to do while you’re here?’ (capture all of your mooses and train them to do my bidding, so that they may be my minions in my quest for global domination) to ‘So… what sort of knives are you using?! {insert ferocious glare}’ (someone’s been watching Vertical Limit).

I came to the conclusion that Canada was relatively civilised though. They have $1 and $2 coins, their money isn’t all the same colour, it has the queen on it, they can actually spell ‘cheque’, they use metric measurements, and they have Mars bars. Although they still drive on the wrong side of the road.

Squamish is the most fantastic climbing destination. I’m developing an unhealthy enjoyment of crack climbing. And slab climbing (despite the protestations of my climbing partner, Mr. Boer ‘Did I mention I don’t like slab climbing… I can’t do the move even if I use the bolt’ Zhao). The only unfortunate part is that it seems to like raining there. Rather a lot.

Skaha on the other hand, is a less salubrious destination. No snow capped mountains in the background there, although there are lakes and rolling hills. Unfortunately the warmth and lakes brings hoards of tourists in RVs, who fill up the town. The climbing is crimpy, which could be fun if your finger tendons are in full health – but an alarming number of holds sound hollow.

Boer climbing against the backdrop of the Squamish logging

squamish

Sweet sweet granite cracks

squamish

On top of Stawamus Chief

squamish

Views from Stawamus Chief

squamish

Conclusion – I must go back to Squamish. More photos are up in the gallery here (ok, fine, they’re not all up at the moment, they might be by the end of today).

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climbing general trip reports

gankiest gunks trip

And so on the Friday evening just past, we were loitering at the airport, waiting to pick up my housemate from Australia. And buildering on anything we could find, as we got there early, and her flight was delayed… layback symmetry, in the Dulles airport carpark.

layback symmetry

There was more driving than climbing over the course of the weekend; hot and humid, we were sliming off holds in the sun all over the place. Perhaps not the best weather to climb at the Gunks (=Shawangunks Mountain Range, New York State). Particularly after arriving at 4am Saturday morning, and only catching a few hours sleep, crashed out on our sleeping pads in a parking lot, before the jubilant banging of racks that must have been composed entirely of hexes, well and truly woke us by 7.30am.

The climber (and biker and hiker) highway that passes along the bottom of the Trapps cliffline, 8am Saturday morning.

Gunks highway

View from the top of the Trapps cliffline (for Arapiles climbers, think the Organ Pipes at Easter).

Views over New York State from the Shawangunks

And so by midday on Sunday we were spent, and ate icecream and drove home.

Categories
climbing general trip reports

the red rocks trip report

DISCLAIMER

The Red Rocks Trip Report by Megan is a work of fiction.

Any references to real people, living or dead; and real events, businesses, organisations, and locales are intended only to give the fiction a sense of reality and authenticity.

All names, characters, places and incidents either are the product of the author’s imagination or are used fictitiously, and their resemblance, if any, to real-life counterparts is entirely coincidental.

(and it’s also very long)