grandmother in bolivian style bowler hat


general travel trip reports

the south america round-up

kitten fishing in santiago de chile
mendoza, argentina
the southest i’ve ever been
arriving in patagonia
parque nacional torres del paine
around the park
into bolivia
hot-tubbing bolivian style
my very first geyser (a.k.a. i can see why safety fences are sometimes a good idea)
through the altiplano
hotel de sal (yes i licked the walls)
salar de uyuni
uyuni, bolivia
lake titicaca
cusco, peru
inka trail – day one
inka trail – day two
inka trail – day three
inka trail to machu picchu
lima, peru
screaming slugs – the highlights

general travel

screaming slugs – the highlights

The Screaming Slugs came to South America too, and were alarmed by most things they saw there.

A cactus on an island in the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia


In the middle of the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia


At Machu Picchu, Peru


In a Richard Serra installation at Toronto Airport, Canada

general trip reports

lima, peru

After all of the encouraging words we’d read about Lima, we weren’t particularly looking forward to spending any time there. A guidebook I’d read before leaving basically suggested: “If you spend only a couple of days there, and see the main sites, you might not hate it.”


Armoured vehicles with sub machine guns by Plaza de Armas, the main square in downtown Lima

And maybe there’s not much there to see if you’re keen on going to museums and art galleries and general tourist attractions. But it’s not that bad. The main thing that tipped it into favour for me was the food – we ate so much fantastic cheap food there.

But also the Museum of the Inquisition.


Museo de la Inquisicion (Museum of the Inquisition)

It had excellent mannequins on display. I’m sure it was probably educational too, but with all the plaques in Spanish, and us too impatient to wait for an English tour, we just wandered round on our own at managed to get a rough idea what the plaques were talking about with our rudimentary Spanish skills. And admired the mannequins.


Museo de la Inquisicion (Museum of the Inquisition)

The San Francison Church and Monastery is also worth visiting, mainly for the Catacombs beneath. According to the Internets: “Originally constructed in 1546, it is one of the oldest churches in South America. It also served as the first official Catholic cemetery in Lima, at a time when the dead were laid to rest in catacombs beneath the church, itself an echo of an old Roman custom… Bodies were brought here, covered in quicklime, and soon reduced to skeletons. It was a quick and sanitary way to dispose of the bodies. Over 25,000 people were buried in this tomb.”

As such there were huge piles of bones artistically arranged in the Catacombs – mainly thigh bones and skulls, as they last longest.

general travel

cusco, peru

The town of Cusco, sprawled out over the surrounding hills – which also have hill graffiti scrawled over them, not very visible in this photo though.



An ‘istorical monument (the Cathedral).



And some Incan stonework. There’s lots of it around town, and if you read the guidebooks they tell you to go and look at it all. I was not particularly excited by it – though it did manage to fill me with disdain for all modern attempts at building worldwide.