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general

esscuse me

Esscuse me… I say esscuse me miss… do you have any spare change? I say esscuse me…

Time keeps doing its thing, and somehow I only have a couple of weeks left working here. One of the things I won’t miss about living in this area, are the Old Town Alexandria panhandlers (called panhandlers rather than beggars because we’re in America, I’m not sure why). From the tall scary dude; the old guy who is always walking along waving his crutches around; to the short gap-toothed lady who has been ‘pregnant’ for a couple of years now (should I perhaps tell her she’s just fat?), and all the others. I’m sick of all of them, and their incessant requests for my money.

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general

route settings

One of the good things about the rainy weekend was spending time at the Pancake House outside of Fayettvile, with it’s ‘truck-stop like atmosphere’. When you asked for pancakes, you got 3 enormous dinner plate sized pancakes, covered in butter, and as much whipped cream and maple syrup as you could possibly want (me, I didn’t want any, and in fact I ended up getting a waffle instead, which was also enormous).

I have decided that Walmart is a scary scary place though. Apart from all of the fat Americans running around, I’m having trouble reconciling myself to the fact that there are crossbows and guns on display just next to the manchester.

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climbing general trip reports

the heartbreak of a moose-less canada trip

My trip to Canada was notable for its complete lack of mooses. I thought British Columbia would be a hotbed of roadside and campsite moose activity, but it wasn’t to be. I feel cheated. There were quite a few chipmunks however. (The more interaction I have with chipmunks, the more I’m convinced that they’re vaguely evil. They have a tendency to try and stalk you, which is more unnerving than it should be.)

On arriving in Vancouver, we received a rather alarming grilling from the immigration official – it went on from the fairly reasonable ‘So how do you know each other?’ (we met in the training camp) and ‘What are you planning to do while you’re here?’ (capture all of your mooses and train them to do my bidding, so that they may be my minions in my quest for global domination) to ‘So… what sort of knives are you using?! {insert ferocious glare}’ (someone’s been watching Vertical Limit).

I came to the conclusion that Canada was relatively civilised though. They have $1 and $2 coins, their money isn’t all the same colour, it has the queen on it, they can actually spell ‘cheque’, they use metric measurements, and they have Mars bars. Although they still drive on the wrong side of the road.

Squamish is the most fantastic climbing destination. I’m developing an unhealthy enjoyment of crack climbing. And slab climbing (despite the protestations of my climbing partner, Mr. Boer ‘Did I mention I don’t like slab climbing… I can’t do the move even if I use the bolt’ Zhao). The only unfortunate part is that it seems to like raining there. Rather a lot.

Skaha on the other hand, is a less salubrious destination. No snow capped mountains in the background there, although there are lakes and rolling hills. Unfortunately the warmth and lakes brings hoards of tourists in RVs, who fill up the town. The climbing is crimpy, which could be fun if your finger tendons are in full health – but an alarming number of holds sound hollow.

Boer climbing against the backdrop of the Squamish logging

squamish

Sweet sweet granite cracks

squamish

On top of Stawamus Chief

squamish

Views from Stawamus Chief

squamish

Conclusion – I must go back to Squamish. More photos are up in the gallery here (ok, fine, they’re not all up at the moment, they might be by the end of today).

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general

tremble, puny earthlings!

Melbourne – most liveable city in the world (or one of them, along with Vancouver and Vienna), according to the 2004 poll by the Economist Intelligence Unit. Melbourne’s been rating up there for a few years now.

DC – not the most liveable city in the world. I think it rates 57th. Which I can understand on the grounds of the weather alone – hot and sticky in Summer, but just a few months ago, there was snow, and I couldn’t go outside without wearing gloves. On top of that, I bought new deoderant last night, which turns out to be boy-smelling deodorant. I’m finding it very confusing.

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general

injustice

On the injustice of gear pricing and sales in the USA, and why I will find it very hard to return to Australian climbing gear prices.

As a sample, we will refer to the pricing of a Green Colarado Custom Hardware Alien. In the US (from REI, for example), they retail at $US52.50. In Australia, the RRP is $AUD148.50, equivalent to $US111.00.

We will now turn to the case of the red (number 1) C4 Black Diamond Camelot. $US62.50 at REI, RRP in Australia of $US89.

We may also note that I have NEVER seen an Alien 20% off in Australia, whereas I have purchased one for 20% off over here. And Camelots are very rarely available for 20% off in Australia. Here, it’s hard to find them full price (NOTE – possible exaggeration).

Australian gear prices are unfortunately high. I rest my case.

(I will accept orders for people who want me to buy them cheap gear; extra cut on top of gear price can come in the currency of Australian food – tim tams, freddos, caramello koalas, crunchies, natural confectionery etc are all welcome)