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bikes canada general hiking trip reports

Lake O’Hara – I think this might be paradise

A gloriously cunning plan came together at the last minute, after our original weekend plans were scuppered. I sat refreshing the Lake O’Hara website until I saw that someone had cancelled and there was a free night of camping for either Friday or Saturday night. I missed the first Saturday, and then a Friday spot, but was successful in snagging the next Friday spot that someone had cancelled – presumably because they didn’t fancy the rain-filled forecast.

Due to the afore-mentioned rain, we didn’t bother booking the early bus up. Instead we opted for the 3.30pm bus, and while the menfolk sat at home putting the final touches on packing (by which I mean, assuming I’d done a good enough job, and sitting around playing computer games) I set off from home on my road bike.

It wasn’t raining at all! Well, not at first. It was mostly uphill, and a bit headwindy, but it often seems to be in that direction. I’d allowed four hours, which is about what it took. Four hours and 95km later, I was slightly soggy but pulling into the Lake O’Hara trailhead parking lot, pretty sure that I had beaten the menfolk in their fancy car.

I stashed the bike in the trees, did a few laps of the parking lot to confirm they hadn’t somehow snuck by me, then sat and ate the rest of my food while I waited for them to arrive. Which they did. With some nice dry clothes for me, and thankfully with at least 10 minutes to spare before it was time to jump on the bus. I did a quick carpark change into dry hiking/running clothes, draped my stinky bike clothes artfully about our car interior to dry, then we leapt onto the bus.

The buses that run up and down the Lake O’Hara access road are big old school bus type things. Loud and roaring, they do the job without much grace, but a certain amount of jolliness.

At camp, we nabbed a site, got the tent set up and semi-assembled, then went prowling about. The boy wanted to find friends, while we wanted to go for a walk to the lake.

We managed to convince him to walk first, then he spent the rest of the evening in seventh heaven as a hoard of other small children descended on the camping area.

His new best friend was a fellow 4 year old, a Czech-Columbian girl named Kati. She was just as boisterous as him, and they had great fun running about in the rain and the mud.

We huddled in the tiny shelters to cook dinner. Our fellow campers were all lovely and friendly, and despite the cramped quarters it was a much more enjoyable experience than our recent Assiniboine stay. The rain showers passed, and we emerged to sit around the fire pit in the social area – chatting, and stepping in to prevent the children from getting too Lord of the Flies when necessary.

After a lazy sort of morning in the tent, we eventually got up and found that the morning was gorgeous and clear, and congratulated ourselves on winning the weather forecast lottery.

After a delicious and fulfilling breakfast of a Clif Bar, I set off to run the alpine loop while the menfolk went for a hike. I shot straight up to Wiwaxy Gap, trying to make up a little time after a late start.

Then it was over to Lake Oesa, which I’d never seen before, and it was at about this point I began to realise just how beautiful this area was. We’d been up to Lake O’Hara before, but never much higher, and higher is really where it’s at.

From Lake Oesa, a trail through the scree lured me around to the Yukness Ledges Alpine Route.

I was surprised how much of the alpine routes were runnable. Although I spent a lot of time distracted by the scenery, and not running at all. And I couldn’t bring myself to put my camera away, which made running a little more awkward anyway.

Then it was down to Hungabee Lakes, and through a little nest of lakes that had drawn herds of photographers to them like bees to some particular bright coloured and pollen laden flowers. It wasn’t just photogenic, it felt like a dream. It was the sort of place that made me just want to stop and lie down and gaze at the world in wonder.

And yet, I kept running. Up along All Souls’ Alpine Route, and a quick stop at All Soul’s Prospect.

Then down, down down, and as fast as I could go back to camp. There I tagged off Alex who took off on his own run.

The boy had already been out for a hike, so we sat and lunched, and he played with Kati. There was chatting, and relaxing in the sun, and then more food and lazing.

Alex made it back in time for us to catch the 4.30pm bus, so we jumped on it. Although it was running about 10 minutes late, I managed to retrive my road bike and be ready to start pedalling at around 5.20pm.

I had some lights for the bike. I wasn’t sure how good they would be, but as long as I didn’t dawdle too much, I figured I shouldn’t have to do too much riding in the dark. The up-side of riding uphill most of the way there though, was that it really was downhill nearly all the way home. And not raining! And reasonably warm! And basically a perfect calm, clear September evening. It was hero riding weather, and I enjoyed every pedal stroke.

I even made the 95km home without having to turn my lights on!

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canada general snow

Who gave all this snow permission to arrive in September?!

As if the snow at Sunshine Meadows incident wasn’t bad enough, the weather took it upon itself to dump a couple of feet of snow on us over a few days.

This is the September snowman of bitterness and discontent. He wants to know why I am living in the Canadian Rockies, when I could be living somewhere with a much more sensible climate.

Luckily he’d suffocated in snow by the next morning, so I didn’t have to come up with a reasonable response for him.

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canada general hiking trip reports

North-nearly-over Ridge

Grandmothers are very handy for enabling quality adventuring time with Alex. So handy, that we took advantage of one more opportunity, and had a go at running Northover Ridge with Al and Lincoln.

This year the southern side of the lake trail had re-opened, with the flood damage largely repaired.

We did a slightly better job of picking a route around Hidden Lake this time (compared to last year), and flew up the trail above it to the scree beneath Mount Sarrail.

Sadly wildflower season was basically over by this time though, so we missed out on the gorgeous splashes of colour. There are some advantages to going slightly later in the season though – especially with the amount of snow that still remained on the ridge!

We ran around Aster Lake to the south – which was much drier than the northern shores, hurrah.

As we hiked up towards Warrior Mountain, I tried to take a photo of Aster Lake. Somehow I managed to turn on this weird postcard mode – I have no idea how it happened, or where the setting for it is, or even how I managed to turn it back to normal photo mode really.

But from there on, it was just scree, scree, scree, scree…

Scree, scree, tarns and scree.

Scree, scree, scree, people, tarns and scree.

Until finally we hit the ridge. Where it was quite cold and windy! Actually, mostly windy.

But still breathtakingly beautiful of course.

We trotted along, stopping for photo breaks, and to throw snowballs.

It was around this point where we had an epic battle with a wizard. We distracted his dragon while Al and Lincoln ran off to the end of the ridge. But Alex and I were unable to defeat him, and thus made a strategic retreat, luring his attentions away so that the others could successfully make it down via Three Isle Lake.

We turned back the way we had come, which had the advantage for Al and Lincoln of a car coming around to pick them up at the end, and for us of seeing what it’s like to descend on the anti-clockwise loop. A completely different trail! Well, obviously not literally a completely different trail, but a very different feel.

Back to the car, another awesome day in the mountains where we weren’t defeated by any wizards. Legs are a bit sore though, and feeling quite hungry.

Distance: 35km (For going clockwise around the loop, getting nearly all the way to the end of the ridge before turning back)
Elevation gain: 1850m

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canada general

Frosty run out from Assiniboine

Warmer this morning, we breakfasted, got mostly packed, then left the small child with the grandmother and hit the trails.

It was perfect running weather – cool, crisp and clear, without being cold enough that fingers, noses and toes started to freeze.

By the time we reached Wonder Pass, the frost had melted.

And as we dropped down towards Marvel Lake, the day kept getting warmer and warmer, and we dropped more and more layers.

The trails were deserted, the views were wonderful, and the running was mostly pretty fast. Of course eventually we hit the double track that would take us out through Mount Shark. Then the running was easier, but far less interesting.

At least when you’re running though, the tedious slog out to the Mount Shark trailhead is over much faster. And running with Alex was a welcome novelty.

We were rushing to reach the Mount Shark Helipad in time to catch the arrival of the first flight out from Assiniboine. But of course, the small child and grandmother were not on the first flight. They were on the fifth flight, and we hadn’t even thought of checking. Thankfully it was sunny, and we had a comfortable rock to nap on, as we watched the excitement of the helicopter travelling to and fro.

And an hour and a half later, the small child and grandmother finally emerged from the helicopter!

Distance: 26km
Elevation gain: 600m

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canada general hiking moosling trip reports

Cold Assiniboine days

Following our run into Assiniboine, we spent a lazy evening wandering around as the temperature dropped.

We had found our hut, but felt no desire to spend any extra time in there. For future reference, the first week after school summer holidays end seems to be booked out at Naiset Huts by people who hate children and would prefer to live their lives in blissful ignorance of this terrible way in which the human race is continued. This may be a slight exaggeration, but at least one person there seemed to want to add our child to her collection so that she could make herself a nice coat.

Although it dawned clear the next morning, it was also cold and very frosty. We lingered over breakfast, before heading out to hike up the Niblet. Or the Nublet. Pretty sure it wasn’t the Noblet or the Nablet at least.

It stayed cold, and managed to be a little windy as well. None of us were feeling terribly warm.

I hadn’t realised how unenthused we were all appearing though, until I actually looked at the photos. It wasn’t that terrible, but it definitely wasn’t warm.

Our meander took us over to Elizabeth Lake, then Sunburst and Cerulean Lakes. Then we just had to kill a little more time before we could justifiably sit around in the cooking hut making dinner.

Our post-dinner hike took us out to Gog Lake, where Alex threw the boy in a creek, but the setting sun was lovely, and so was the lake.