The Alps: Switzerland to Liechtenstein (3 – 4 Oct 2009)

It seemed a bit chilly on waking up this morning – and on sticking our heads out of the tent we discovered there’d been a frost! Well, we were camping at 1472 metres, so it wasn’t such a surprise, but it made it much harder to leave the sleeping bags. In the end we bought a voucher for 2 hours internet from the campground, and lazed around in our sleeping bags looking at the weather and possible cycle routes, and trying to decide where to go from here. To follow the Alps west, or to head north? We came to the sensible conclusion that the good weather probably wasn’t going to last forever, that the forecast held precipitation, and over any alpine passes that was going to be falling as snow (a good idea, as a few days later it was snowing on at least one of the passes we’d crossed).

 

Coming into Zuoz (I think), one of many little Alp towns along our route today

 

After a morning of lazing around we headed into town then uphill to Albula Pass/Pass d’Alvra (2321m). It was a rest day so we only did one 2000m+ pass. We mostly followed the road – largely on one of the Swiss national cycle routes, although I forget which number. There were lovely views, and a clear blue sky, and I stripped down to a singlet once again as it warmed up. We cycled through a series of little towns with cobbled streets, and passed lots of other cyclists, both on the road and mountain-biking.

 

La-Punt Chamues

 

 

Turning off to climb over Albula Pass (Pass d’Alvra)

 

 

Albula Pass

 

 

Albula Pass

 

We wound up a series of hairpins then to a more gradual ascent through an open valley, and then descended without putting enough clothes on. It was shady and cold and we both ended up freezing cold with numb fingers. 1321 metres of descent (past cliffs and railway line and under bridges) later we found a campground under some electrical wires. They ask us “Isn’t it too cold for camping? Are you sure you want to camp?” Yes we’re sure.

 

Descending alongside the railway

 

Another freezing cold morning the next day leaves us lurking in our sleeping bags in the warm for some time before we summon up our courage to exit into the frosty world outside. Even with all our warm layers on, the cycling is very cold until after 10am when the air starts to warm and we leave the valley and stop descending.

 

At the Herbstfest

 

We passed a Herbstfest (Autumn festival) some time after Thusis, which had tractors and donkeys to ride, as well as piglets and goats and rabbits and Swiss music, and some sort of cattle show and sale, with all the cows wearing their best enormous show bells. Some of them seemed fairly uncooperative on the whole showing front, and stubbornly dug their hooves in, then just sat down on the spot – meanwhile the handler was busy trying to drag them around by the bell collar.

 

The valleys start to widen, and crops appear again

 

Lots of cyclists and horses shared the path with us as we passed near Chur. Then we were heading north again, and passing through the Heidi Alps! I get very excited and Alex looked at me as if I’m a bit odd. Heidi was the first book I remember reading though. In Maienfeld we hit another festival, with piano accordions and wine flooding the streets.

 

Vineyards outside of Maienfeld, by the Heidi Alps

 

After dallying a while, we climbed the hill past Maienfeld, through vineyards, and descended through a Swiss Army base (with cliff bunkers and everything) to reach Liechtenstein. It seems strangely similar to Switzerland, and we found a campground in Balzers – that unsurprisingly had cow bells sounding through it.

 

Into Liechtenstein

 

Distance cycled: 135km
Days of rain: 0/2 (wooo! the sunny spell continues)
Public toilets: Available
Bike friendliness: Reasonable – We followed the Swiss cycle routes. Route 6 took us through some unpleasant tunnels and road on the section between Thusis and Tiefencastel (I think the route description suggests you’re better off taking the bus or train for this section, the riding isn’t that nice anyway). It improved after that though, with lots of hills and cows and fields, and more crops again.