During the night we’d heard a huge thunderclap overhead and then a veritable downpour. Thankfully our shelter was relatively waterproof, and we were all as dry as we had been last night. Which was not particularly.
We cycled off at about 6.30am, winding around the Lake, then climbed up through rain over the range to descend into fog. Finally the fog cleared, and we emerged into flat dry(ish) farmland.
Another town stop for food at 42km, and we started churning through kilometres, cruising through hilly farmland and being passed by Japanese army trucks constantly, going in both directions.
I start contemplating the fact that having a new set of bicycle panniers is just like moving into a new house. Suddenly you have a whole lot of new cupboards to fill, and you’re not quite sure where to put everything. So you do the best you can, and shove everything away. And initially you can never remember where you put things, and maybe some things weren’t stored in the best place. But gradually you develop a system, and learn exactly where everything belongs, and can always put your hand just on what you need.
With around 100km under our belt we start the final climb up into the hills around Akan National Park, and then the descent to the Lake. We’re now on a run of three closed campgrounds – at least the Akan one seems to be getting ready to open for Summer, with running water and open washroom facilities – although sadly their hot showers, laundry and common room are not available.
To make up for this though, they have a foot onsen! So we sit and eat dinner with our feet in mildly warm water, then set up camp in the trees at the back, hiding from the onslaught of mosquitoes and bugs.
Location: Lake Shikaribetsu – Akan Lake (Akan National Park), Hokkaido, Japan
Distance cycled: 138km