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bikes european bike epic general

day two – cuckoos and green trees

A nice sleep-in had us on the road at the incredibly early hour of 10am or so (after being fed coffee by the nice man at the campground).

It rained on us occasionally, and we rode along nice sweeping roads, through farmland, and into hillier terrain. We met our first tunnel, and were pleasantly surprised by how polite the traffic was – even though the speed limit was only 50km/hr, everyone was giving us at least half a lane of space.

 

 

Lots of cuckoos and cicadas around, and rivers, bridges, and workmen with flags (it would be so easy to pose as a construction worker in Hokkaido, all you’d need is a red flag and a white flag). In the afternoon we started working our way uphill, and were rewarded with a long and sweeping downhill, sitting on the speed limit (40km/hr) and flying down the smooth deserted road.

We found our campsite at around 5.30pm, after finding a large tyrannasaurus rex, and a Japanese cycle tourist. We noted the large warning signs about bears in the area, then not long after going to bed we heard crashing about in the bushes next to our bikes. We carefully unzipped the tent and stuck our head round the corner… good, whatever it was, it was hidden by the bikes. Couldn’t be too big. We pointed our headlamps about for a better look, and finally caught sight of a foxy tail. Aha! Cheeky fox! We chased him away, and tied our food bags up in a tree. Going back to bed we heard the fox crash back up to the bikes again, then crash away empty handed.

Location: Hayakita – Lake Katzurazawa, Hokkaido, Japan
Distance cycled: 92km

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bikes european bike epic general

the start of the cycle tour – day one in hokkaido, japan

We arrived in Tokyo Narita airport at 7am. After being handed pieces of paper informing us we were quarantined (thanks to coming from a filthy swine-flu infected country) we were let loose on the Tokyo subway system with a bike and two stripy bags full of panniers and camping gear. After successfully picking up Alex’s bike, and cramming it into a bike bag, we set off for Haneda airport.

By the time we got to the roof top viewing platform at the airport, I was already sold on Japan. A viewing platform! On the roof! And it was sunny, and there was tasty food everywhere, and a man on a train platform had even given us candy. Tasty candy! (Yes, I accept candy from strangers).

After our JAL flight to Sapporo, we piled out of the baggage claim area and were found by the Boy. And then spent several hours assembling the bikes, and tweaking Alex’s bike to fit him, and all of that fun sort of stuff. We were kept nourished by food from vending machines (which was disturbingly tasty).

 

 

It was looking suspiciously wet outside, and as we set off into the dark it started raining on us. Oh well. 22 kilometres we were damp, and quite tired, and after finding the campground we quickly collapsed and fell fast asleep.

Location: Chitose Airport – Hayakita
Distance cycled: 22km

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bikes european bike epic general

the grand bike tour of 2009

Well, it’s nearly time…

 

 

Phase One – Japan
31 May – 17 June 2009

Phase One will be undertaken with myself, Alex, and a mysterious character known only as The Boy (who may or may not be my brother). The advantage to this set-up is that Alex and myself speak no Japanese, whereas The Boy has considerable kanji skills. But on the other hand, The Boy has not left Australia since he was 9, and has not done much camping since then either. Whereas Alex and I have spent lots of time travelling round and living in foreign countries. And camping.

We’ll be cycling around Hokkaido, and then Alex and I will go back to Tokyo to jump on a plane to Europe, while The Boy continues cycling around Japan.

 

 


Phase Two – Europe
18 June – 7 Nov 2009

Phase Two has Alex and I arriving in Dublin, meeting up with my mother, then travelling around Ireland for the next 10 days or so, hopefully getting a few days of cycling in. Then we’ll somehow catch the ferry over to Wales. Ride through Wales to London then Dover, take the ferry to France, then who knows what will happen! There are friends to meet up with in Europe, and friends who’ve mentioned interest in riding sections with us… so we shall see.

It’s hard to fit in all the places we’d like to go, and things we’d like to do, especially with the strong Euro smiting our plans left, right and centre. Doing a side trip to Iceland would be excellent. So would going from Finland to Estonia via St Petersburg. And drifting further east into Romania. And a trip down south into Greece! And more of Italy! And Spain! And Portugal! And Scotland! But for the sake of time and money these sections will probably be left out.

 


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bikes canada climbing general trip reports

ice-capades on a frozen lake

Looking through the guidebook for an ice climb to do on a windy day with high avalanche risk, we struck upon the climbs down by the edge of Lake Minnewanke.

The guidebook told us that the first ascent team had used iceskates to get to the climbs – but for later in the season recommended bikes. “Ok”, we thought, “bikes it is, that sounds like a great idea”.

 

Walking the bikes across Lake Minnewanke

 

Arriving at the lake we had to hunt around for a while to find a good place to get onto the ice – neither of us were keen on heading out across the middle of the lake, but along the southern shore all the ice was buckled creating huge impassable water trenches. So we cycled along the the half-way parking spot, and followed some fishermen out onto the lake. “It’ll be fine”, they reassured us, “at least six inches of ice as far as you can see”.

 

Ice heaving at the edge of Lake Minnewanke

 

So we set out across the lake with our bikes – initially there was too much snow to ride. Then suddenly there was no snow at all, and the glossy smooth ice threw had us walking immediately. “That’s ok”, we said, “it looks like it’ll be more rideable near the shore”. So we headed off towards the southern shoreline… and walked … and walked… and shuffled… and it got no closer. The ice was clear, and the water beneath was dark and deep. Huge cracks were running everywhere – deep lake-crossing cracks that looked to be nearly 3 feet deep, and tiny 5cm cat cracks, and everything in-between. The cracks were unsettling but the smooth patches between the cracks were worse, as there was nothing to convince your brain you weren’t just walking on water.

At this point we still didn’t have our crampons on, and so were shuffling across and trying not to fall over. This makes no sense of course, but we didn’t want to anger the lake monsters, and the ice was just so pretty! Our crampons would damage the perfect surface. So the bikes were being caught by the wind, and we’d be blown along bike and all, sliding along the ice.

By the time we reach the shoreline we’d both fallen over at least once and were well and truly over any worries about damaging the ice. Stashing the bikes, we decided to put crampons on, the headed off down lake again.

 

Reflection in the frozen lake

 

All the time walking up the lake we had a tailwind behind us – ice skates would have been scary, but maybe a sled with a sail? After walking for an hour, it still felt like we hadn’t covered much distance. That lake really is enormous. There was a stop for lunch, and then we finally reached the ice climb (which I haven’t included a photo of, as it wasn’t particularly exciting).

 

Sitting on water – Amy adjusts her crampons

 

Post ice climb we stuffed ourselves with some more food, then trudged off into the headwind. It was about as fun as could be expected. I developed a wind rating system:

Gale Force 1 – Necessitates modification of walking style, although progress can continue.
Gale Force 2 – Must stop walking and brace yourself into wind.
Gale Force 3 – Must stop and crouch to provide smaller surface area to wind.
Gale Force 4 – Must turn around and crouch with back to wind.
Gale Force 5 – Even crouching with your back to the wind you get blown over. Best option is to sit with your back to the wind and lift your crampons – you will get blown along the lake.

We experienced all of those. The only consolation was that it was a sunny day, the mountains were beautiful, and the frozen lake was still pretty amazing. And as we picked up our bikes again and headed for the car, the sun was setting.

 

Sunset across Lake Minnwanke

 

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bikes canada

back on the bike

Fed up with not having any exercise for the last week and a half, I decided to test out my knee on a short bike ride. Unfortunately the warmest it managed to make it to today was -22oC (-8oF) or so. And there was a lot of snow around, so it ended up being a longer than planned bike ride with large sections of pushing. As I set out it was like a world of pastel though, with everything snow-covered and subdued sunset pink and blues soaking through.

 

 

I went back out and cycled along my nemesis track – the powerline trail where I crashed and hurt my knee. Much less icy this time round. However I then made the mistake of turning off to cycle a loop along by the dam – I got bogged pretty much straight away, but for some reason decided to keep going.

 

 

So the pushing began, as even deflated, my tyres weren’t fat enough to deal with the snow. The sun was setting – and I was getting colder. My eyelashes got lovely and icy – as did my eyebrows apparently. And yes, I have a red polka-dot balaclava. It means I look more like a Russian peasant than the serial killer or cat burglar looks that you get with the standard black balaclava, but I’m ok with that.