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canada general hiking trail running trip reports

Elbow Lake – Sheep River Valley – Rickert’s Pass – Mist Ridge

I was dropped off at the Elbow Lake trailhead, and shooed up the trail. The menfolk would be meandering their way up to the lake and back, while I ran the loop all the way from Elbow Lake, through the Sheep River Valley, up Rickert’s Pass and out along Mist Ridge. It was to be a little over 30km I thought, all through the Elbow-Sheep Wildland Provincial Park. I was hoping to do it in under four hours – although with the enormous climb up Rickert’s Pass in the middle of that, there was always the probability of taking longer.

Out past Elbow Lake the crowds thinned considerably. Once I turned off up towards the Sheep River valley, just before Tombstone campground, I only saw a couple of other people – so most of the time on the trail it was just me and the imaginary bears that were going to eat me.

The signage out there certainly isn’t fancy…

We’d read about the trail as a suggested mountain-bike route, but I think I’d be more inclined to bike up Mist Valley and back along Mist Ridge if I was on a bike. The trudge through Sheep River Valley and up Rickert’s Pass wouldn’t be any more fun on a bike than it was on foot (although it’s always nice to explore new terrain).

Dropping down into the Sheep River Valley

There were lots of streams to cross on the Sheep Trail. The first I tried to keep my feet dry, but after that I just gave in and waded straight through. Seven streams later, and the deepest had nearly reached my knees. Wet shoes and socks, but that was about it – and warm enough that they dried out quickly enough.

As you travel along the Sheep River Valley, you leave the Provincial Park and enter private land. The trail up to Rickert’s Pass is marked on many maps, but according to a sign posted now, the trail up to the pass from the Sheep River is now closed: “Private Property – Trail Closed – Travel restricted to main Sheep River Valley bottom trail as marked on map… Travel off main Sheep River Valley bottom trail by written permission only”. By the time I’d gotten that far, I wasn’t about to turn around, so I headed on up, wondering what had prompted the posting of the sign, and hoping I wasn’t about to be chased off by shotgun-wielding property owners.

After an interminable hill-slog, I reached Rickert’s Pass, and then set out along Mist Ridge (after briefly considering just throwing myself straight down the Mist Valley trail instead). I’d been dreaming of flat running along the ridgeline, but there was still plenty of up. But at least there were spectacular views to go with it.

Mist Ridge stretching out before me

After one final awful uphill, it was finally downhill to connect to the Mist Valley trail, where Alex was waiting for me on a bike, with a bottle full of water. I drank it down, but declined the offered bike – I had nearly made it by then, after all, even if it was looking like it would be a few kilometres longer than I’d imagined. A long few kilometres when you weren’t expecting it. But then, finally, back at the car, and done!

Elevation gain: 1200m
Distance: 34.5km
Time taken: 4hr20min
Location: Elbow-Sheep Wildland Provincial Park, Kananaskis Country, Alberta
Bears seen: 0
Bears imagined hiding in the undergrowth about to eat me:
(And yes, they’re all phone photos, I was not tempted to carry a heavy camera, strangely enough)

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canada food general moosling

And then he was Two!

His favourite things are helicopters, trains, cars, puddles, running, and anything with sugar in it. Now his vocabulary has started to explode too, beyond the old basics of ‘fire’, ‘nana’ and ‘outside’. He loves to run away exploring when we’re outside

For his birthday, he got a wooden helicopter, a fluffy cat-bus (from Totoro!), a shiny yellow Tonka truck, a fancy fedora, some Thomas the Tank Engine undies, and a book full of Awesome Stuff, amongst other things.

And then there was the cake shaped like a helicopter (kind of – the decoration ended up being a little rushed and last minute). The cake was nonetheless appreciated.

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canada general hiking moosling

Sunshine Meadows, and the run out via Healy Pass

With family visiting and a warm sunny day, it was time for another trip out to Sunshine Meadows.

We had lunch up at Rock Isle Lake with the ground squirrels (who didn’t get anything from us, but are quite habituated).

And then I left the menfolk behind and went for a run out to Healy Pass and then back out to the Sunshine base carpark. It’s a cracker of a run, about 20km, and plenty of signposts, so it would be very hard to get lost.

There are plenty of fantastic views along the way (above: coming across from Wawa Ridge, looking out towards Healy Pass, and below, looking back towards Sunshine Meadows from Healy Pass). The wildflowers were out, and the bears weren’t.

I was first back to the carpark, so had time to sit with my feet in the icy cold creek. And wish for a cold drink to go with it.

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canada general hiking moosling trip reports

The Iceline Trail

The Iceline trail had been on a vague mental to-do list for a while (actually, who am I kidding, it’s no longer a mental to do list, it’s a fancy google map with annotations and hike lengths, filled with dreams of endless time and money). But a few weeks ago a friend wanted to hike it, invited me, I couldn’t make it, but then she came back exclaiming how awesome it was. And so from there a plan was born. Gorgeous sunny weather, Sunday with nothing planned – why not? Let’s go.

We’d never even been to Takakkaw Falls before, which is a big tourist destination, and right where the hike starts, over in Yoho National Park.

How we started the Iceline

The plan was to hike along the Iceline Trail first, climbing up above the Hostel, and then hopefully making it all the way over to the Stanley Mitchell ACC Hut, and then down and out via Laughing Falls and back to the car. There are a few different options for making the loop though – with the option of an extension out along the Whaleback Trail (out to Twin Falls), or a shorter return via Celeste Lake on the Highline Trail.

Gaining the bench, still in the vegetation

But despite a slow start, the Moosling was a champion again, even after his big hiking day yesterday. He warmed up to the trail and delighted in all the rocks and streams as we traversed along the bench below the glaciers on the Iceline. He’s now learnt about stopping and taking your shoes and socks off to soak your feet when you get to a stream though, and was pretty keen to do so at every single stream we crossed.

A stream on the Iceline

The views really were amazing (you can see over to the Wapta Icefield, amongst other very cool things), and it’s definitely one of my top three Canadian hikes – I would love to come back and run it too – maybe covering some of the extra trail we missed this time.

Crossing the stream

And apparently toddler-pace is a steady jog. He only stopped running when he fell down. Or occasionally for help over rocky sections.

Standard view

He certainly put the trail runners we saw to shame.

Iceline views

Eventually though, the running machine needed to nap, and so he went into the Ergo, and we hiked on. Down off the Iceline bench and into the trees again, past some lovely flowery meadows.

Into the flowery meadows

A brief stop at Stanley Mitchell hut, to check things out, then onwards down the trail. We were trying to cover as much distance as we could while we didn’t have to worry about toddler herding.

Past Stanley Mitchell Hut

He woke up not long before Laughing Falls though, and walked the rest of the way down the switchbacks to reach the Falls (and dabble his feet in the water yet again).

The falls above Laughing Falls

Marvelling at the waterfall

After Laughing Falls, the trail did begin to drag a little. We’d walked it in the direction we did in case of afternoon storms, or in case a waning toddler meant we had to turn back instead of continuing around the loop. But the endless trudge was made even more endless as the Moosling began to decide he didn’t want to walk, but he didn’t want to be carried either. He just wanted to find sticks to play with in the trees. We lured him on with leg bridges, and games of chasies, and ‘Find Mama behind the tree’. And eventually Takakkaw Falls were in view again.

Arriving back at Takakkaw Falls

We walked the side trip up to the base of the falls, for the lovely cool spray of a rampaging waterfall on hot hikers. Then it was back to the car and driving home, after a long and satisfying day.

Takakkaw Falls

Distance: 22km
Elevation gain: 875m
Max elevation: ~2230m
Car to car time taken: About 7.5 hours (yes, not a speed assault of the loop by any means)
Trailhead: Takakkaw Falls parking lot, or the road next to it
Toddlerability: No Chariot, but fine with an Ergo/backpack. Lots of rocks and streams.

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canada food general moosling

Post-hiking ice-cream

There’s no ice-cream quite like an after hike ice-cream.