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general hiking travel trip reports

Day One of the Laugavegur hike (Landmannalaugar – Hrafntinnusker)

The Laugavegur is a 55km hike in south-west Iceland, usually completed over four days. It’s one of those classic hikes – the sort that are so classic that you should book months in advance if you want to be sure of a spot in the huts. Of course, if you don’t mind camping in the rain, then you’re probably ok. But given the weather in the area, chances are you would be spending at least one night sitting outside cooking in the rain, then huddling in the damp of your tent. We booked space in the huts.

After a four hour bus ride from Reykjavik, we were grateful to be out of the bus and able to stretch our legs (and set the Moosling loose) once we arrived in Landmannalaugar. And then it started to rain. Finishing lunch and then getting sorted to hike in the mizzly rain, we set forth through the twisty-tortured moss-covered lava fields of Laugahraun. Distant sheep wandered about wetly and the picturesque mountains were shrouded in clouds.

Hiking further along, the ground was steaming too. Between that, the clouds, and the mizzling rain, it was a very damp hike, with just a hint of sulphur.

But then, slowly, the rain stopped falling on us. And even if the clouds didn’t really lift, it was a definite improvement. And those ridiculously colourful rhyolite mountains were peeking out at us everywhere, with their artistic daubs of moss and ash-saturated snow, looking like a painted backdrop rather than genuine scenery.

Hiking on through the alien scenery, the crowds thinned out, until we were mostly walking on our own, occasionally running into another couple hiking along, or stopping for a snack. Although numbers on the trail are high, and the distances to cover each day are low, everyone seems to thin out over the whole trail, with late starters, and early starters, and “lets sit in this meadow for a few hours”ers.

Although there was a lot of geothermal activity to be seen, the only bathable hot springs for the day were behind us, in Landmannalaugar. We’d decided not to partake, feeling that everything was damp enough already, and really wanting to do something other than sitting after the bus ride.

Before too long we were hiking across rocky plains, following yellow painted poles and walking past a memorial to an Israeli who had died of exposure up here in recent years. Then around a corner, and the hut appeared – the Hrafntinnusker, our home for the night. Sleeps 52 (plus a Moosling who kept trying to crawl into the kitchen). Below it were nestled a colony of colourful tents, each ineffectually huddling by an optimistic wall of balanced rocks.

Distance: 12km
Terrain: A bit hilly, with an overall altitude gain of 470m

Categories
general travel

Back from Iceland!

We spent the first couple of days in Reykjavik, failing to find Carmen Sandiego, and gradually adjusting to the six hour time difference. And to the fact that we’d found somewhere colder and windier than Canmore to spend our Summer holidays. Walking round the streets of Reykjavik can be downright freezing with that wind coming straight off the ocean.

The Solfar (Sun Voyager) statue

 

Views of the city from Perlan – we were staying right by the big white church

Categories
bikes canada general hiking moosling snow travel

2010 in photos

I think I was planning to do this last year, but was completely overwhelmed by the task of choosing one photo per country, let alone one photo per month. This year, that’s not such a problem. We rarely strayed from the Bow Valley, so all adventures were pretty local, although some were admittedly quite life-changing. A few days before the year began, I found out I was pregnant. And so that provided the frame for my year to unravel in (and decided us on staying in Canada for the rest of 2010 at least).

 

January: I started working for a heli-skiing company in mid-December, after arriving back to Canada from the epic Japan-Europe bike trip. When the opportunity for a free four day heli-skiing trip came up through work, I thought I’d better jump at it (as in a few months time I might be getting a bit too pregnant). The rest of the month was largely spent being exhausted and nauseous, thanks to the pregnancy hormones kicking in. I did squeeze in one day of ice climbing though, seconding up a 200 metre long WI4 – lots of fun, very tiring. There were also family friends visiting, who we went out adventuring with a little (and managed to dislocate Brendan’s shoulder on his first backcountry skiing experience – although we got it back in, and he came back to Canada to live for the Winter, so it can’t have put him off too much)

 

February: The first few days of the month I was still away heli-skiing, then returned to Canmore, absolutely exhausted (although sated on much tasty food). I did my first hike up Ha Ling Peak for the year, as the unseasonably warm Winter continued. An ultrasound in Calgary proved that there was only one wee beastie growing inside me, to my considerable relief. The Winter Olympics were on in Vancouver, and I spent my 30th birthday watching the Olympics and eating chocolate fondue and pie (but not together) at a friends place. Otherwise I spent a lot of time being incredibly nauseous, and having a lot less energy than usual (although I still got out skiing a few times). Sleep was king.

 

March: My nausea was thankfully fading by now (except for mornings, when ginger ale was my saviour), and I was starting to get my energy back, so I started getting out doing things a little more often, which felt great. The beginnings of movements were starting inside my tummy, and I got some hiking and biking done. I acquired a full body harness as well, and started a routine of going to the climbing gym every couple of weeks to do some easy climbing.

 

April: I did a lot more hiking this month, as the “Winter” seemed to have disappeared altogether now – although I still got in a few days of skiing. We started house hunting, looking to move to somewhere a little larger, hopefully downtown. There were obvious rollings around going on inside my stomach – by the end of the month I was more than five months pregnant, and some days it felt like I had a herd of elephants loose inside my tummy.

 

May: Alex and I did our last ski tour together for the year, to Egypt Lake (we got the hut to ourselves, and it’s fantastic). We started getting cyclists trickling in to stay with us via the warmshowers.com website. And we got a Magic Bullet blender, and the obsession with making smoothies began – thankfully my appetite had finally returned to normal, and the hypersensitive sense of smell had vanished. Mid-month we moved to our new house – a 2-bedroom four-plex that’s right downtown. Otherwise the month was filled with hikes, bike rides, yoga, and kicks in the stomach.

 

June: Early in the month there was an alarming pie explosion incident. It was followed by lots of hiking up the neighbourhood mountains, and I noticed my available oxygen was gradually decreasing over the month. Mid-month there was an attack of visa stress as our current work permits were due to expire, yet the application for new ones wasn’t going as smoothly as anticipated. We also had a tame ferret break into our house via the tumble dryer ducting – sadly we found his owners and returned him the following afternoon.

 

July: We did a three day hike from Sunshine Village to Mount Assiniboine and out via Mount Shark, while I was 34 weeks pregnant. Getting in and out of the tent was challenging, and my feet were swollen and enormous by the end of it, but it was fantastic anyway. My oxygen started returning as the baby started settling head down. Despite that I was still finding it harder to get out hiking, as I was moving so much more slowly, and all the warm weather was making my feet puffy and swollen. At the end of the month I was a volunteer for the work team doing the 24 Hours of Adrenaline (a mountain bike enduro event), which Alex competed in – dislocating his shoulder half-way through the event when we ducked off for a swim in the lake to cool down. I biked the Legacy Trail between Banff and Canmore for the first time and was kicking myself for not doing it earlier.

 

August: At the start of the month I was 37 weeks pregnant and staying at the Bugaboos Lodge. Thankfully the long long very bumpy road in to the lodge didn’t set off labour. I did my last hike up Ha Ling Peak, and finished up at work. By August it was almost impossible to get any sleep overnight, everything was uncomfortable, and rolling over in bed was an epic mission that had to be contemplated for minutes before commencing. Walking around was increasingly uncomfortable as my pelvis hurt so much, but I found cycling was really comfortable, with my pregnant stomach hanging hammock-like, and barely any weight on my poor feet. Some friends stayed for a few days, visiting from Australia, then I spent my last week of pregnancy being domestic. And then on the 21st my waters broke just before midday. 40 hours later, the Moosling had arrived. The rest of the month disappeared in a blur of getting to know him, and learning how to look after him.

 

September: We took the Moosling to see his first pipe and drums bands at the Canmore Highland Games as I gradually regained the ability to walk more than a hundred metres. Mum came to visit for most of the month, and spent lots of time cooking and looking after us. By the end of the month I was feeling recovered enough to join in on the family hike up Ha Ling Peak (my tenth summit of the peak for the year, and Finn’s first summit on the outside).

 

October: This was the month of adapting to life with the Moosling, with Alex back at work and without my Mum to help out. Friends visited, we had a big Thanksgiving dinner, and I started hiking and bouldering again, and doing yoga. We started getting out and about with Finn in his Chariot. And someone bought a copy of the boardgame Settlers of Catan, which we started playing several times a week.

 

November: Early in the month the Moosling and I did a flying day trip to Vancouver to get his Australian passport sorted. Then there was enough snow around to start skiing at the Nordic Centre, testing out the Chariot in ski mode, and we got a family day out at Sunshine. I kept bouldering, and for some reason I did nanowrimo and got a short novel written.

 

December: After a few days of skiing early in the month, we flew to Australia. There we spent a couple of weeks in Melbourne, going to a wedding and doing a whirlwind visit of friends and family. Christmas and New Years were then spent up at the farm (while Alex went back to Canada to work… and ski).

Categories
general travel

Bruce Bay, West Coast, New Zealand (25.11.2009)

Driving along the west coast after hiking the Routeburn, we passed by Bruce Bay one cold and windy morning, and stopped to walk along the beach – and discovered these huge piles of message stone, and balancing stones and land art. I had some fun adding to the balancing, the rocks there were fantastic!

 

 

 

White rock on driftwood

 

 

Random art

 

 

Messages – most of these were from the last month or two, so either this is a new development, or people come along and clean things up to stop it from getting out of hand.

 

 

Messages

 

 

And rock piles as far as the eye can see

 

 

And a shoe

 

Categories
general travel

New Zealand (14 – 26 Nov 2009)

 

Ferns unrolling

 

 

Visiting Sair in Christchurch

 

 

With Sair’s rat

 

 

Oamaru – wool bales

 

 

Mount Cook

 

 

Lupins! They were growing wild all over the place, in a ridiculous array of colours.

 

 

Lake Wanaka from Wanaka township

 

 

Driving through the Crown Range between Queenstown and Wanaka (after hiking the Routeburn Track)

 

 

Lake Wanaka, driving away from town

 

 

Learning how to rock balance – frustrating, yet strangely satisfying

 

 

Fox Glacier, advancing at a rate of almost a metre a week

 

 

A Kea, shortly before it devoured our entire rental car (for those of you who haven’t had the pleasure, they’re a large alpine parrot that lives in the South Island of New Zealand – they’re cunning beasties, and will eat anything)

 

 

Castle Hill boulders