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canada food general moosling

And then he was Two!

His favourite things are helicopters, trains, cars, puddles, running, and anything with sugar in it. Now his vocabulary has started to explode too, beyond the old basics of ‘fire’, ‘nana’ and ‘outside’. He loves to run away exploring when we’re outside

For his birthday, he got a wooden helicopter, a fluffy cat-bus (from Totoro!), a shiny yellow Tonka truck, a fancy fedora, some Thomas the Tank Engine undies, and a book full of Awesome Stuff, amongst other things.

And then there was the cake shaped like a helicopter (kind of – the decoration ended up being a little rushed and last minute). The cake was nonetheless appreciated.

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canada general hiking moosling

Sunshine Meadows, and the run out via Healy Pass

With family visiting and a warm sunny day, it was time for another trip out to Sunshine Meadows.

We had lunch up at Rock Isle Lake with the ground squirrels (who didn’t get anything from us, but are quite habituated).

And then I left the menfolk behind and went for a run out to Healy Pass and then back out to the Sunshine base carpark. It’s a cracker of a run, about 20km, and plenty of signposts, so it would be very hard to get lost.

There are plenty of fantastic views along the way (above: coming across from Wawa Ridge, looking out towards Healy Pass, and below, looking back towards Sunshine Meadows from Healy Pass). The wildflowers were out, and the bears weren’t.

I was first back to the carpark, so had time to sit with my feet in the icy cold creek. And wish for a cold drink to go with it.

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canada general hiking moosling trip reports

The Iceline Trail

The Iceline trail had been on a vague mental to-do list for a while (actually, who am I kidding, it’s no longer a mental to do list, it’s a fancy google map with annotations and hike lengths, filled with dreams of endless time and money). But a few weeks ago a friend wanted to hike it, invited me, I couldn’t make it, but then she came back exclaiming how awesome it was. And so from there a plan was born. Gorgeous sunny weather, Sunday with nothing planned – why not? Let’s go.

We’d never even been to Takakkaw Falls before, which is a big tourist destination, and right where the hike starts, over in Yoho National Park.

How we started the Iceline

The plan was to hike along the Iceline Trail first, climbing up above the Hostel, and then hopefully making it all the way over to the Stanley Mitchell ACC Hut, and then down and out via Laughing Falls and back to the car. There are a few different options for making the loop though – with the option of an extension out along the Whaleback Trail (out to Twin Falls), or a shorter return via Celeste Lake on the Highline Trail.

Gaining the bench, still in the vegetation

But despite a slow start, the Moosling was a champion again, even after his big hiking day yesterday. He warmed up to the trail and delighted in all the rocks and streams as we traversed along the bench below the glaciers on the Iceline. He’s now learnt about stopping and taking your shoes and socks off to soak your feet when you get to a stream though, and was pretty keen to do so at every single stream we crossed.

A stream on the Iceline

The views really were amazing (you can see over to the Wapta Icefield, amongst other very cool things), and it’s definitely one of my top three Canadian hikes – I would love to come back and run it too – maybe covering some of the extra trail we missed this time.

Crossing the stream

And apparently toddler-pace is a steady jog. He only stopped running when he fell down. Or occasionally for help over rocky sections.

Standard view

He certainly put the trail runners we saw to shame.

Iceline views

Eventually though, the running machine needed to nap, and so he went into the Ergo, and we hiked on. Down off the Iceline bench and into the trees again, past some lovely flowery meadows.

Into the flowery meadows

A brief stop at Stanley Mitchell hut, to check things out, then onwards down the trail. We were trying to cover as much distance as we could while we didn’t have to worry about toddler herding.

Past Stanley Mitchell Hut

He woke up not long before Laughing Falls though, and walked the rest of the way down the switchbacks to reach the Falls (and dabble his feet in the water yet again).

The falls above Laughing Falls

Marvelling at the waterfall

After Laughing Falls, the trail did begin to drag a little. We’d walked it in the direction we did in case of afternoon storms, or in case a waning toddler meant we had to turn back instead of continuing around the loop. But the endless trudge was made even more endless as the Moosling began to decide he didn’t want to walk, but he didn’t want to be carried either. He just wanted to find sticks to play with in the trees. We lured him on with leg bridges, and games of chasies, and ‘Find Mama behind the tree’. And eventually Takakkaw Falls were in view again.

Arriving back at Takakkaw Falls

We walked the side trip up to the base of the falls, for the lovely cool spray of a rampaging waterfall on hot hikers. Then it was back to the car and driving home, after a long and satisfying day.

Takakkaw Falls

Distance: 22km
Elevation gain: 875m
Max elevation: ~2230m
Car to car time taken: About 7.5 hours (yes, not a speed assault of the loop by any means)
Trailhead: Takakkaw Falls parking lot, or the road next to it
Toddlerability: No Chariot, but fine with an Ergo/backpack. Lots of rocks and streams.

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canada food general moosling

Post-hiking ice-cream

There’s no ice-cream quite like an after hike ice-cream.

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canada general hiking moosling trip reports

Cory Pass – Edith Pass hike

The Cory – Edith Pass loop has a little bit of rave surrounding it online, as being possibly the best in the Banff National Park. There are also notes about it being strenuous, and easy to lose the trail at one point.

It’s definitely a little strenuous. But it’s a hike up a mountain, so you tend to get that. Nothing out of the ordinary though, and certainly not as bad as the spirit-crushing sort of sidewards scree walk of Grotto Mountain or the Tower of Babel. So the uphill wasn’t so bad, but the mosquitos were enough to drive a person crazy.

The traffic noise lasted for a while, but as we climbed above the highway the sound faded. A short scramble over a rock band provided interest, but it wasn’t so scrambley that it was an issue to do it with a toddler on my back (although the accompanying agoraphobics weren’t so keen on it).

And then came the sidling around the slopes of Mount Edith – again, something that was not loved by those who don’t love exposure, but not difficult. And then, Cory Pass. Many rocks, and a ground squirrel, views of the Banff section of the Bow Valley, and more mosquitos. And a view of both Edith and Cory, and the tantalising scrambles to their summits

A brief lunch and we descended into the scree on the far side, dropping down towards Mount Louis – a fantastic view, as you walk around between Mount Louis and Mount Edith, and gradually views down towards Mystic Pass and the Sawback Range open up, and Brewster Mountain appears. The trail-finding difficulties mentioned in some route descriptions would only be genuinely difficult if you were in a white-out, or were particularly bad at trail finding (as were two guys we walked past, who got turned around, failed to find Cory Pass altogether, and then ended up lost in the bush, calling for help to get back to the main trail).

As you round Mount Edith, you enter a damp sort of forest. No more scree, instead a dirt path, and more mosquitos. Occasional views, thanks to avalanche paths, but then simple forest drudgery past trickling streams and through swarms of mosquitos. Perhaps a nice hike, if it weren’t for the bugs, but the constant biting and itching and slapping and flapping didn’t really add to the enjoyment. The few wild strawberries did wonders to improve the mood, although then of course, the Moosling kept trying to find more wild strawberries, and was inclined to try and eat anything he found by the side of the trail, just in case.

The Moosling obviously hasn’t heard of hiking at a toddler pace. He’s gotten the hang of hiking trails, and as soon as you get him on one, he just wants to run along it, as fast as possible. He only requires a little assistance to get down the hills. Or up the hills. “Uh oh”, he says, and holds his hands in the air. That’s our cue to come along, offer a hand, and help him past the spot. On prolonged downhills he’ll happily run along for as long as I’m willing to run with him, bent over and holding his hands.

Anyway, all in all, it’s not a bad hike. Some nice views, close to town, interesting terrain, and a nice stream by the trail-head at the end. The whole thing would be more exciting with a side-trip up one of the peaks, or more enjoyable with the subtraction of the mosquitos from the equation. But alas, mosquitos have to eat too, and we’re tasty and convenient food apparently.

Distance: 13km loop
Maximum elevation: 2350m
Elevation gain: 920m
Trailhead: Fireside Picnic Area, just by the Banff end of the 1A
Toddlerability: No Chariot, but fine with an Ergo/backpack